(Gardening) Year-Round Gardening With A Greenhouse, ogrodnictwo
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University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center
YS-78 - 8
As a service to the public, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has reproduced this chapter from the 1978 Yearbook of
Agriculture. A copy of the Yearbook, Living on a Few Acres, may be purchased by sending a check or money order
for $7.00 to Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D.C. 20402. When ordering, use Stock Number
001-000-03809-5.
Year-Round Gardening With a Greenhouse
By Conrad Link and David Ross
The greenhouse is a specialized structure designed for growing plants year-round. A clear or
translucent cover permits sunlight to enter, which heats the greenhouse during the day. When
excessive sun heating occurs, ventilation is needed. During cold nights and much of cold days, a
heating system is required to maintain the desired temperature.
After the initial investment in land and the greenhouse structure, the main expense will be
for heat and labor. If the owner and family are the labor force, then heat becomes the biggest
expense. Other costs will include soil and growing media, fertilizer, pesticides, pots, seeds, and
bulbs. The part-time greenhouse operator must develop a market for his products and skill with
attention to details that result in quality plants.
Crops to be grown will be influenced by where and to whom they will be sold. Marketing
includes selling wholesale to flower shops and garden centers or selling retail directly to the
consumer.
A greenhouse should be on a site that takes advantage of full sun, provides good water
drainage and utilizes windbreaks. Electricity and a good water supply are needed. A separate
building should be used to store equipment and supplies, to provide workspace, and perhaps to
house the heating system.
Size of the greenhouse should be well planned. If the hobby or business endeavor proves
successful, the greenhouse will soon be too small. Plan the size, location, and layout to permit
future expansion.
Larger greenhouses are more efficient and more economical to operate as they cost less
per square foot and the environment can be maintained more uniformly. Heating and ventilation
systems are the most expensive items needed for a greenhouse. Their costs per unit area are less
in larger greenhouses.
Structural Options
Many styles of greenhouse frames exist; select one that is pleasing and practical for you.
The frame may be wood, steel, or aluminum. The cover can be glass, plastic sheet, or fiberglass,
each available in different sizes and qualities.
A popular low cost greenhouse is the pipe frame or curved roof style. The foundation is a
series of pipes driven into the ground to support the curved roof members. Roof members may
be made of steel or aluminum pipe or may be a curved truss.
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The cover is a single or double layer of greenhouse-quality, ultraviolet-inhibited 6-mil
(0.006 inch) thick or heavier plastic sheet. Plastic sheet is good for one or two years, depending
on the material quality and weather. An air-inflated double layer of plastic film can reduce
heating costs by 30 percent.
For a more permanent cover, use a clear greenhouse grade fiberglass. Fiberglass is
available in several grades having service lives of a few years to perhaps 20.
Plans are available through your county or state Cooperative Extension Service for wood frame
greenhouses which can be covered by plastic film or fiberglass. Wood in contact with the soil
should be pressure-treated or painted with a wood preservative, Copper naphthenate is a safe
preservative near plants; creosote and pentachlorophenol are harmful to plants.
A good quality greenhouse can be built with a good foundation and rigid frame, or an
inexpensive greenhouse can be built with a temporary frame to give seasonal plant protection.
A glass greenhouse is the third possibility. Glass and aluminum or steel combine to make
a long lasting, beautiful greenhouse. The glass, rigid aluminum or steel frame, and a sturdy
foundation make the initial investment high. However, annual maintenance is much less.
While the glass greenhouse is a showplace, the beginner will find the less expensive, temporary
plastic or fiberglass greenhouse well suited as a first structure.
Two additional structural options are the hotbed and coldframe. These are low-walled
frames with cover to give plants protection during cool, windy spring weather. A hotbed has a
heat source in the soil. A 3 x 6 foot coldframe or hotbed can be used to advantage for starting
vegetable or flowering plants.
Heating Systems
The greenhouse can be heated with steam, hot water, or hot air. The system can be fired
by any of the conventional fuels. The heating system should be fully automatic and as free from
maintenance labor as possible.
A thermostat is used to control heater operation. The fan on a hot air heater should be
wired to run continuously to maintain uniform air temperature throughout the greenhouse.
Two smaller heating units instead of one large one provides some insurance in case a
heating unit fails. A small standby electrical generator is good to have for a power failure.
Heating units must be vented to the outside if there are combustion gases. Provide an air inlet
near the heating unit so oxygen is available for combustion.
Heater size is determined by the following equation: heater size (BTU/hr) = (total surface
area in square feet) times (night temperature difference between inside and outside, °F) times (a
heat loss factor).
The heat loss factor is 0.7 for air-separated double plastic sheet and 1.2 for single layer
glass, fiberglass, or plastic sheet. These figures should be increased by adding 0.3 for hobby
(small) greenhouses or for windy locations.
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University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center
For further details read the bulletin, Hobby Greenhouses and Other Gardening Structures,
available from NRAES, RileyRobb, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853 for $2.
Ventilation, Shading
Ventilation is essential for producing good quality plants. The temperature must not get
too high, and a supply of carbon dioxide must be maintained. Ventilation can be provided by
natural convection, using side and roof vents, or by mechanical means using exhaust fans and
inlet louvers. Thermostats and electrical motors are used to automate ventilation.
The ventilation system must be able to change the air once each minute in a large
greenhouse, and to change it one and a half times each minute in the hobby (small) greenhouse.
Winter ventilation requirements are about one-quarter air change per minute. Two fans, with one
having two speeds, are often used; the low speed of one fan is enough for winter. Motorized
intake louvers are placed on the opposite wall.
The volume of a greenhouse is length times width times average height and is given in
cubic feet. The fan rating will be in cubic feet per minute (cfm).
Shading materials such as saran cloth, movable lath strip covering, lime and water, and
dilute white latex paint are used to reduce light intensities and to cut the solar heat load in
summer. Light reduction is necessary for those plants which grow best in low light.
Many plant functions are controlled by the length of day. Some plants such as petunia,
China aster, or tuberous begonia naturally flower in the long days of summer (long-day plants)
and others such as chrysanthemum or poinsettia flower in the short days of fall or winter
(short-day plants).
Other plants such as carnation, rose, lilies, and everblooming begonia flower regardless
of the day length (day-neutral plants).
A greenhouse operator must protect short-day plants with a light-tight cover to induce
flowering when days are long. Artificial light is used on long-day plants to induce blooming in
winter months.
Temperature Control
A well designed heating and ventilating system allows the greenhouse operator to
maintain the most efficient and economical temperature for plant growth. Greenhouse night
temperatures are generally maintained at 50° to 70° F, depending on the kind of plant. The
temperature is permitted to rise 10 to 15 degrees during the day before ventilation is started.
The effect of temperature on growth varies with plants. Seedlings of many crops are
started at a warm temperature and then grown at lower temperatures. This is true of annual
vegetable and flower plants germinated and started at 70° to 75° F, grown at 65°, and finished at
55°.
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University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center
Water that is safe for drinking is appropriate to use in a greenhouse. Water from ponds
and wells is fine, providing it doesn't contain excess amounts of salt.
When plants are watered, apply a sufficient amount to moisten the entire volume of soil
plus some that will drain through. This drainage helps prevent buildup of salts from the water or
fertilizer used. Frequency of watering is determined by size of the plant, temperature, and the
growing medium's ability to hold water.
Water is applied manually with a sprinkling can or hose. Spray nozzles or porous plastic
tubing are used for watering cut flower crops. Trickle tubes may be placed into individual pots or
plants. Such watering systems may be made automatic using a time clock switch that is set to
water at designated times, or by using devices that operate on dryness of the soil.
Capillary watering of pot plants is possible by placing them on a bed of sand kept
continually moist. Recently a carpet-like mat of natural or synthetic fibers has been used in place
of the sand.
Soils, Growing Media
Plants may be grown in many types of soils, soil mixtures, or mixtures of organic matter
and inert materials without soil. The growing media mixture must be uniform in texture, hold
sufficient water and drain well, be porous and well aerated, and pest-free. It need not have any
available nutrients as these are supplied in fertilizing.
Growing media ranges from fertile top soil with no additions, to a variety of mixtures that
may include sharp sand, peat, perlite, bark and wood chips, sludge, or composted leaves. When
using soil, select a sandy loam or loam, preferably one containing organic matter. Be careful of
soils containing herbicides as they may damage your plants.
Sterilize soils and growing media before use to reduce the problem of soil insects,
diseases, and weed seed. Steaming is most effective but certain chemicals may do the job.
Growing mixtures are prepared by the greenhouse operator or bought already prepared.
Commercial mixtures are often more economical because they are sterilized, ready to use, and
may even contain some fertilizer.
Proper application of fertilizers is another part of growing under greenhouse conditions.
Have soil tests made of mixtures with a high proportion of soil. Mixtures without soil generally
contain little available fertilizer nutrients.
Modern greenhouse procedures call for using soluble fertilizers. These are applied at the
time of watering. Fertilizer in this form is available to the plant at once.
Soluble fertilizers are generally of the so-called complete types, supplying nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium. Some may contain other fertilizer nutrients. Mixtures without any
soil often need the application of "minor fertilizer nutrients" in very minute quantities to supply
plant needs.
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University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center
Equipment for liquid fertilizer application ranges from simple devices which meter
concentrated fertilizer solution into the water hose, to elaborate proportioning devices which are
adjustable to specific concentrations.
Chrysanthemums
Commercially, chrysanthemums are produced year round by regulating the day length to
encourage vegetative growth or flowering as needed. Many cultivars (cultivated varieties) are
available for greenhouse culture.
Flower types vary from singles to full doubles, incurved, thread or spider types, or
anemone forms. Flower size varies from less than an inch in diameter to exhibition types 8 to 10
inches or more. Plant habit varies from dwarf compact forms to tall ones suitable for cut flowers.
Both cut flowers and potted mums have year-round sale.
The natural dates of flowering of chrysanthemums range from late August and early
September to late December. Cultivars are grouped into response groups based on the number of
weeks of short days needed to produce flowering. Response groups range from 7 to 14 weeks
long.
The best mums for cut flowers and pot plants are in the 9-, 10-, and 11-week response
groups. A crop takes about 16 to 20 weeks from planting to harvest, varying due to the season
and response group.
Chrysanthemums grow best in porous, well-drained soil with a moderate level of fertility.
Commercial growers use a 60° F night temperature.
Single stem cut flowers are planted on 4 x 6 to 5 x 6 inch spacing. Multistem cut flowers
are planted on 7 x 7 to 8 x 8 inch spacing. Top the plant when it is 4 to 6 inches tall, and allow
two or three sterns to develop.
Potted plants usually have three or four cuttings per 6-inch pot and are topped once
shortly after they become established. Commercial producers of cuttings supply their customers
with schedules of culture suitable for their area.
Poinsettias
Poinsettias are grown primarily as Christmas plants. They are propagated by stem
cuttings from June until mid-September. Rooting under a mist system, in sand or perlite, requires
21 to 24 days. Some growers root directly in pots in a soil mixture.
In summer, poinsettias may be grown under glass that is slightly shaded to reduce
temperatures. They should have full sun starting in mid-September. The poinsettias will flower
by mid-December if they receive only normal daylight and a temperature of 60° to 62° F. If
growth is satisfactory and the bracts have developed good color by early December, the
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